In 1958, Carl Allen opened up Allen's
Bait and Tackle shop at 1382 Magnolia Avenue (U.
S. Highway 92) just west of Auburndale in Central Florida.
Frustrated
that
no
restaurants
in
the area served catfish, in 1964 Carl started offering
catfish dinners there in the store. In an interview with
a local writer, Allen stated, "I had to take my wife
all the way to Okeechobee to get a mess of catfish. Then
one day I got me an idea: I'm goin' down there and bring
me back a load, and I'm gonna cook 'em in here. And that's
how I got started. I put catfish on the map."
In the beginning the cafe's big draw
was that famous Lake Okeechobee catfish sizzling in the
deep fryer but the hand written menus would soon grow to
feature more unusual Florida delicacies like alligator,
turtle, rattlesnake, armadillo, shark, frog legs and swamp
cabbage. "You won't find anything on the menu that wasn't
caught, netted, raised, grown or hatched in this state," Allen
would say.
But, on any Thursday night, a trip to
Carl Allen's Historical Cafe was an experience for the
eyes, ears and taste buds, that may never be experienced
again, anywhere else on earth. It began outside. A small
sign on the front porch read, "We have an agreement with
the bank: They sell no fish; we loan no money." Another
one on the door warned, "This is not Burger King. You don't
get it your way. You take it my way or you don't get a
damn thing." Inside, hanging from the ceiling, nailed to
the wall, stuffed in display cases, and crammed in every
available corner, was a wild collection of antiques, hand
tools, kitchen implements, arrowheads, old photographs,
vintage appliances, patent medicine bottles, and assorted
junk. Allen's wry sense of humor was evident everywhere.
The plaque on a set of mounted steer horns is engraved "My
Wife's First Deer." An old hacksaw, with a length of chain
where the blade should be, was labeled "Chain Saw." The
restaurant housed over 20,000 items-- a collection Allen
started when he was 12 or 13 years old. Even the tables
were unique. Each table top was decorated with a theme gunslingers,
Indians, Gone With The Wind, antique cars, trains, etc.--
and the bases were old treadle sewing machines.
Open the door and the sound of bluegrass
would grab you. Waitress Anna Rose would make her way through
the crowd loaded with plates of fried catfish and hush
puppies, sauce pans of grits, and Mason jars filled with
iced tea. Stepping around and over instrument cases, she'd
have to stop and wait for a banjo picker to finish a tune
so he could tilt up the neck of his banjo like a tollgate
and let her pass. Each of the front three rooms would have
a jam session smokin', where the wannabe's tried vainly
to hang in there with the veteran pickers like James Rogers,
Sam Tidwell, and Jim Grove. In the main dining room, lanky
Gilbert Hancock would have the audience roaring with laughter
between songs while he'd deadpan his routine about the
poor baby snakes "who don't have a pit to hiss in."
It was about 1980 when Carl added the
large dining room complete with a large stage and complete
sound system to accommodate regular bluegrass and gospel
performances in addition to the customary Thursday night
jam session. According to Allen, "There got to be so many
pickers sittin' on my tables that I couldn't serve food.
They just kept all these tables full all night. They'd
come in and sit down at five o'clock and didn't leave until
eleven. I don't blame 'em. They'll tell you 'If you don't
jam at Allen's, you can't come to Florida.'"
And come they did. Especially in the
winter when instrument-toting snowbirds from all over the
United States and Canada migrated south and flocked in
to roost at Allen's Cafe on Thursday nights. Over the years
many visiting bluegrass artists like Don Reno, Chubby Anthony, "Uncle" Josh
Graves and David Crow performed there. Freddy Clark and
the Clark Family started appearing at the restaurant several
times each winter and became the show stoppers at the March
festivals. Bluegrass songbird, Rhonda Vincent sang and
played with her parents in their Sally Mountain Show. Mandolin
wizard Mike Marshall, who grew up in nearby Lakeland, was
a regular at Allen's as a member of the Sunshine Bluegrass
Boys. Many other local pickers got their starts on Allen's
stage and went on to have successful careers in the music
business.
Since the cafe's closing in 1998, several
have tried to pick-up where the Allen's left off. But,
while some may have limited success, there will never be
another
Allen's Historical Cafe -- because -- there will never
be another Carl Allen.
Lakeland
Ledger
(Lakeland, FL) 1970
"A Touch of Local Color"
------------------------- Lakeland
Ledger
(Lakeland, FL) 1971
"One Oyster, One Necklace"
------------------------- News-Chief
(Winter Haven, FL) 1975
"Auburndale Historian Born Too Late"
------------------------- WH
News Chief
(Winter Haven, FL) 1976
"Auburndale Restaurant Provides History Lesson"
------------------------- Florida
Fishing Magazine
1977
Restaurant Review
------------------------- Heartland
Tribune
(Tampa, FL) 1977
"Rattlesnake For Dinner?"
------------------------- San
Francisco Examiner
(San Francisco, CA) 1980
"He's a Cracker and Proud of it"
------------------------- Detroit
Free Press
(Detroit, MI) 1987
"Rattler Served Here"
------------------------- Tampa
Tribune
(Tampa, FL) 1988
"Florida Flavor Served Here"
------------------------- Florida
Today
(syndicated) 1988
"Heapin' Helpin' of History"
------------------------- Atlanta
Journal and Constitution
(Atlanta, GA) 1990
"John Egerton Article & Review"
------------------------- St.
Petersburg Times
(St. Petersburg, FL) 1990
A Heapin' Helpin' of Cracker History"
------------------------- Sunday
News
(Lancaster, PN) 1993
"Try Armadillo at Allen's Historical Cafe"
------------------------- The
News-Herald
(Willoughby, OH) 1996
"Review of Florida Restaurants"
------------------------- News Chief
(Winter Haven, FL) 1996
"Carl Allen Takes Final Curtain Call"
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