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DETROIT
FREE PRESS / WEDNESDAY, MARCH 4, 1987
AUBURNDALE, Fla. - For Detroit Tigers fans and other travelers in Florida who want to get off the beaten path, one of the best stops is Carl Allen's Historical Cafe in Auburndale, a restaurant 20 miles east of Lakeland that features what is called Cracker cookin'. Alligator and rattlesnake share the menu with swamp cabbage, but the chief attraction is Carl Allen himself, a crusty 69-year-old raconteur who has made his restaurant a monument to a way of life that has all but disappeared. The ramshackled roadhouse is packed to the rafters with Florida memorabilia, plus everything from bottles of Walker's Old Indian Health Tonic to a Civil War canteen. Allen's menu includes familiar seafoods, plus alligator, soft-shell turtle, armadillo and rattlesnake, all served with slaw, hush puppies and a choice of fries, baked beans or grits. This is not the usual farm-raised catfish, but wild catfish, caught in nearby Lake Okeechobee. It is, Allen promises, "a whole lot better than a fish that doesn't work for its living." The rattlesnake is a chewy white meat with a mild flavor and a lot of bones. It's a little tough, because, as Allen says, it's "nothing in the world but a muscle crawling around."
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